CURB APPEAL. This is the most important issue you can address. No one ever buys a house without stepping inside it, so make sure they want to get out of the car when they pull up in front. Cheap fix: simplify the landscaping. In newspaper advertising it's called white space. In landscaping, let some rock show between plants. Most likely you'll need to just trim everything waaaaaay back. (It'll make them look healthier as they grow, too.) Walk across the street to your neighbor's garage and look back, perhaps for the first time. Look at the trees. Nothing should be hanging lower than a minimum of four feet off the ground. For tall mature trees, try five or six feet. Trim from the trunk first, then tackle the loose branch tips. (We call it "skirting.") Don't let any plants encroach the walkways, don't let them grow out of proportion to the height of the home, and be sure to blow or vacuum all the loose plant debris away. Maybe it's time to hose down the house, also. How worn is your front doormat? Do all the lights come on at night? Any bird nests in the eaves? Spider webs on the garage door? Need any touch-up paint anywhere?

Garbage cans should be out of sight, wooden fences should be freshly painted or stained to look their best, and all windows should sparkle. If plants look dead, dig 'em out or replace the clogged drippers feeding them. Change the backup battery in the watering system control box. Once done, you'll have raised the perceived value of the property while eliminating "I wonder what else is wrong with the property" from the buyers' dialog. And your cash outlay is virtually zero.

OFFER TO CARRY PAPER. No, not the newspaper, silly… the note for the buyer. In non-Realtor-ese, you become the bank for your buyer. If you can, this is a great moneymaker. Here's why you should consider what we call "doing a carryback" or "carrying back." Many buyers have legitimate problems verifying income for their conventional lender. For example, a good bartender or waitperson is paid largely in cash, so it's difficult to prove that they made $30,000 last year. A small business owner might have a multitude of legitimate business deductions, which makes a real take-home of $65,000 look more like $15,000 to the IRS. For them to obtain what's called a "no-income qualifier" loan they would have to come up with a down payment of 30-40% of the purchase price. These otherwise-qualified buyers need a lender who can flex with them. Maybe you can. Because of the difficulty they'll have obtaining a regular loan, you can help them buy your home by being their new lender. You have the right to inspect their credit report first and to make inquiries into their finances. You can legally charge an above-market rate for the loan, too. For example, if market rates are 8.5% for 30 years with one point (1% of the loan amount as a prepaid processing fee), you might get them to agree to pay you 11% or more, depending on their desperation to buy your property (or any property, for that matter). That's certainly better than a 3.5% interest-bearing savings account down at the corner bank, isn't it?

Wait… There's more. Because of their need for you to carryback in order for them to buy, you can frequently counteroffer the sales price of the home above your list price. So a carryback gets you 5% or 10% or 20% down, an above-market interest rate, and an inflated selling price which will make your neighbors proud (and jealous). And, of course, you also get to sell your home to a buyer who otherwise would walk away from you. Neat, huh? That's the good news. The bad news is there's risk involved. Serious risk.

First, if you have an existing loan on your home, the note probably contains a due-on-sale clause, requiring that any transfer of title automatically accelerates the note, making it immediately due and payable in full. That is, unless the lender doesn't discover the transfer. Now, I would never advocate violating the terms of a note you've previously agreed to, but I can tell you it happens with some frequency. If the lender finds out by getting a check from someone other than you, for example, then it's all due and you're in a wee bit of a cash flow crunch overnight. It's best to carryback only when you have either no note or no due-on-sale clause in the existing note, like when you bought the home for cash, or if you've paid the note in full already and own the home outright. If the buyers ever default, you'll need to start legal proceedings promptly, something which might be difficult if you now live 2,000 miles away. In a short time you get the property back to sell again, and you keep all payments made in the interim, including the down payment. Carrying back makes you lots of extra money, if you don't need all the cash right away to buy your next home. If you do, you can always turn around and sell the note for less than 100% of its face value, and it instantly becomes someone else's problem.

MAKE SURE EVERYTHING WORKS. Seems basic, doesn't it? But when buyers are inspecting your home and the bathroom exhaust fans and oven lights don't work, if the ceiling fans squeak, if wall switches spark when turned on, you're losing money. Just fix them. If the pool and spa water aren't sparkling blue, take care of it right now. Dirty pools will prevent even lowball offers from ever being written. Chances are the buyers will hire a home inspector discover the deficiencies during the escrow period anyway, so why not take care of the problems up front to encourage a full-price offer for the same expense?

MAKE SURE THE HOME SMELLS NICE. You're no doubt immune to the dog hair, cat urine, diaper hamper, buttered microwave popcorn, cigarette smoke, or dirty clothes on the closet floors. Ask your Realtor for a candid assessment of your home's smell. A good Realtor will be blunt. A good friend might not. A qualified buyer definitely won't. One bad smell can cost you five or ten thousand dollars. If they don't just leave to buy a different house altogether.

Buyers seldom see your home like you do, all by itself. They'll usually see a handful of similarly-priced homes before yours so if, for example, they've seen 5 homes at $100,000 and yours is overpriced at $110,000, they might not bother to make an offer for you to consider, because you appear unrealistic to them. If you severely overprice it at $120,000, it won't even appear in their Realtor's search. The buyers who will see an overpriced listing will compare it to the other properly-priced $120,000 homes they've seen, and then yours will appear under-featured. Another concern is everyone has a relative looking over their shoulder because, "after all, nobody really pays full price for a home anymore." That's nonsense. If it's in great shape and properly priced, any experienced Realtor worth his salt can justify to a buyer why they should write the offer at full price. If, on the other hand, a buyer wants to "steal" a house by purchasing it significantly below market, it had better be missing kitchen cabinets and commodes. Inventory is low and demand is high, so you should expect it to sell for between 97% and 100% of the Realtor-suggested list price. When it's priced right, right from the start.

I've always told my clients that I never know the exact price at which the home will sell but, if buyers are coming through and buying other properties instead of yours, I can tell you in 30 days the price at which your home will not sell. You see, as long as buyers and agents are coming into your home, I'm marketing your home effectively. If it's priced right for its condition, it'll sell in 30 days. If it's not selling, I strongly urge my clients to lower the price 3% - 5% every 30 days until it sells. You're not losing money by lowering the price, because the price apparently was not a real price. And when you lower it to the probably real price, you're more likely to get a full-price offer without lowball hassles. Sometimes, when perspective clients ask me to describe my marketing plan, I simply say, "Price it right." In reality, little else we do matters as much as pricing it properly.

HIRE AN EXPERIENCED LISTING AGENT…

Wow, does this make a world of difference. Between their networking with other experienced agents who regularly sell other agents' listings (a listing agent's most important asset), an experienced listing agent can entice a borderline buyer to write an offer at full price better than a new agent who has "no one else to serve but you." An experienced listing agent can also keep a deal together through the difficult escrow period between contract signing and closing, when even the best of contracts can fall apart for the most ridiculous reasons (usually ego, fear, or bad advice from a well-intended friend or relative).

…WHO WORKS PREDOMINATELY BY REFERRAL.

The "By Referral" feature is important to consider because, to be successful in real estate, an agent must always "prospect" for new business. Many Realtors "farm" neighborhoods, hoping their For Sale signs will sprout on everyone's lawn. Some agents cold call on the telephone (you've never received any of those calls, have you?), some actually put on sneakers and sweats and knock on doors. Many sit open houses hoping a breathing individual will wander in before the football game starts, and some toss cheap memo pads on your driveway so burglars can tell when you're not home. What these prospecting techniques have in common is they keep your agent from devoting as much time as is necessary to find a buyer for your home, because they're out looking for their next client, instead of serving you.

I don't work that way anymore. More and more of my business is word-of-mouth referrals to friends, families and acquaintances from satisfied past and current clients. If and when you and I decide to work together, I will remind you how important it is to the sale of your house for you to help release me from having to prospect for new business, when I could instead be working towards selling your property.

In exchange for your referrals, I'm compiling a directory of my clients' services, which I publish periodically and give to everyone I know or meet. Your business gets promoted for free, I can concentrate on working for you, and your friends and acquaintances get a level of service from me which makes you look like a hero for recommending me to them in the first place. Or you could hire an agent who has to go toss memo pads onto driveways this afternoon. If you're planning to interview several agents before you select one, be sure to ask them what percentage of their business comes from referrals. The higher the percentage, the better for you.

GET OUT OF THE HOUSE. Don't ever give guided tours to buyers. You have absolutely no idea what they're looking for, and you'll start bragging about the one feature which intrigued you when you bought the property, but they absolutely want to rip out immediately. It's difficult enough to sell your home when everything goes right. Don't work against me! Let the agents show your home to their buyers. Don't worry… We can find the kitchen without you. Go see a movie, talk a walk or something. And please take your dogs with you.

ASK FOR DISCOUNTS. Keeping your costs under control is sometimes just that easy. While it's important to remember that you get what you pay for, many service vendors have programs in place for lesser fees, if only you think to ask. My favorite phrase is, "Is that your best price? Really?" (I actually got a discount at Burger King once with that one!) Title companies may give discounts if you've owned your home a short time, because they just ran a title search only last year, or if you're running two transactions (buying and selling) through the same agency. Lenders can legally bury fees in monthly payments to keep your down payment low. In contract negotiations with your probable buyer, you can frequently hit the buyer with appraisal and home warranty fees if you have the leverage (like a properly-priced home in top shape, wink-wink!).

SELL BEFORE YOU BUY. This will really save you big bucks, yet most sellers get overanxious and throw money right down the drain. There are three ways to coordinate a sale and purchase. Let's examine them one by one.

A. Coordinate the two close of escrows so they occur simultaneously, and you smoothly move from the old home into the new. Sounds great. Doesn't work in reality all that often, because you would have to find your next property about the same time you receive a contract on your current home for sale. If a contract on the current home doesn't arrive, you risk losing the new place, and if a contract comes in quickly (such a problem!), you'll not have found the new place yet. This one's ideal but very unlikely.

B. Buy your next home before you place your current home on the market, and risk having two simultaneous mortgages. -- Danger! Danger! -- You buy the next place first, then rush to sell the current home quickly to avoid dual mortgage payments. In most cases, you'll need to price your current home below market value in order to unload it fast, and you're losing money right away.

Artificial deadlines don't allow for thoughtful decisions, unfortunately. I never allow my clients to place themselves in a two-mortgage situation because you would need to buy the next home contingent upon selling your existing home in time. (If you were a home seller and someone asked you to take your home off the market until they sell their own home first, and it's not even on the market yet, the asking price would suddenly skyrocket, if they accepted your offer at all.)

C. Sell the current home first, risk living somewhere temporarily, then buy the new home. As unpleasant as the thought of moving twice might sound, it makes for the best economic situation to maximize your return and minimize your risk. After you receive a solid pre-approved buyer's non-contingent offer on the current home, then we can go looking for the next home together. Telling the seller of the home you want to buy that yours is already under contract, that you're pre-approved with a lender, and that you're flexible with scheduling all combine to encourage the seller to accept your offer without countering at a higher price. Buy low, sell high. Easy. Let the moving company hold on to your stuff for a little while, and just shack up in a small rental for a short time, if necessary. That's what prudent buyers do to maximize their return and maintain control over both transactions.

DON'T SELL BY OWNER. This may sound self-serving (and, I suppose, it is), but studies by the National Association of Realtors have repeatedly demonstrated that home sellers consistently net more money after the sale when they used a real estate agent, even after paying a commission, than when they successfully sold it themselves. Hard to believe? No, not really. My advertising costs are wholesale (I buy in bulk), while you pay retail. I'm trained to negotiate better as an agent than you can for yourself as a principal. (Did Richard Nixon negotiate with Vietnam himself, or did he send Henry Kissenger?) I'm familiar with why certain clauses exist in the sales contract and how to reword them to serve your specific needs. Besides, when you're selling dozens of homes every year, you have systems in place to expose your clients' homes to the greatest number of potential buyers faster and cheaper than can the clients.

VERIFY YOUR AGENT'S AGENCY. When selling your home, be certain to hire an agent who will represent you and your best interests; selling the home quickly for the highest price possible. Conversely, when buying a home, you should be certain that your agent will operate as a buyer's agent, who's primary responsibility is to get you the home you want at the lowest possible price, regardless of the fact that we're paid on a percentage of the sales price. It's okay for the agent to represent both sides, should that scenario occur (that's called dual agency), so long as they at least represent you, too, rather than only the other party when you buy.

USE THE SAME AGENT FOR BOTH TRANSACTIONS. Stay out of trouble and save money on this one. It might be tempting to call the agents whose names are on the signs out there, but one agent handling both transactions for you can coordinate your problems to go away in a fashion that two agents who don't talk to each other cannot. Besides, when I handle both transactions, I have more flexibility in my rates. Ask me about this one.

DISCLOSE ALL ACTUAL DEFICIENCIESIN WRITING. Selling your home for all it's worth continues after the sale is over, as well. If lawsuit-happy buyers find a problem with your home after escrow closes, and they can demonstrate that you knew about it but didn't disclose it to them in advance, you can expect to hear from their lawyer. And lose. Most common situations? Faulty air conditioners and hot water heaters, leaky roofs, and rumors of past murder-suicides on the premises. Rule: If the neighbors know, you should tell the buyers, too. In all my transactions I have the sellers fill out a detailed survey specifying the dates of repair or replacement of the home's basic systems, knowledge of environmental problems, airport or train noise, foundation settlement problems, and why the home qualifies (if it does) as a stigmatized property. For example, Nicole Simpson's home is a stigmatized property. If disclosure of anything pertinent would cause a buyer to offer a different amount, you should disclose it.

PUT A HOME WARRANTY IN EFFECT RIGHT NOW. First, it'll cost you nothing just to have it in place until close of escrow. Second, it'll protect you right away against many problems for just $50 per service call. Third, and most importantly, it'll give your buyers such a sense of comfort in buying a used home that they might just write an offer on your home before those others without such a warranty in place. When the offer to purchase is submitted, you can use your leverage to have the buyers pay for it themselves, anyway. That's the best of both worlds. And don't necessarily pick the cheapest policy out there, either. Read the fine print in advance. My favorite is American Home Shield, because they give absolutely exemplary service, but at least use one.

ASK YOUR AGENT ABOUT GUARANTEES. Having an agent who was referred to you by a satisfied former client is a pretty good guarantee to start with, but you should ask anyway. Don't settle for a lame, "Don't worry… If I don't sell it, you don't pay anything." The home not selling costs you plenty. My guarantee is simple and straightforward: I make performance promises up front, in writing. While I would love to guarantee that I will sell your home, I just can't. Nobody can. But I do guarantee that I will work diligently towards doing all those things which increase the odds of it selling quickly, and for top dollar. And I will keep you informed of my actions and progress, as well as feedback from agents and their clients who tour your property, so we can react to deficiencies and correct them quickly, if we agree that they're valid comments. We'll discuss adjusting the price as market conditions change every 30 days. And if I'm not performing as promised (an unlikely event) and you make a valid case to my broker (an equally unlikely event), then we'll release you from the listing agreement. I don't mind making guarantees when I know I'll outperform them. But in case I don't, you have an out. And remember that I don't get paid until after you get paid. And I like getting paid. And you will, too.

DON'T INSIST ON OPEN HOUSES AND CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING. They're the least effective and most expensive marketing techniques out there for selling your home, and it's in your best interests for your agent to know not to do them. Surprised? Here's why:

Statistically, the odds are only 1 in 200 that someone will walk into your open house and buy that very house, because they have no idea as to whether your home fits their needs in the first place. Most bona fide buyers would be working with a real estate agent for free and, if your home fit their needs, they would be taken directly to it regardless of whether it's held open or not. (Ahh, the simple pleasures of a multiple listing service.) And the vast majority of prequalified working-with-a-Realtor buyers ignore the classifieds because their agent searches a more comprehensive database daily anyway. Really, now, unless you're looking for a used car or musical instrument, who really likes reading tiny classified ads? And is it a wise use of my time to sit in an empty house, hoping that a prequalified buyer will happen to drive by and walk in? I don't think so, and neither do most other top-producing agents. Now, I've been known to sit an occasional broker open house, where I've spoken and advertised to agents in advance, because every agent inside your house is worth five buyers, and I don't have to shmooze them, either. (I'll probably have to feed them, though.)

ARE YOU READY TO SELECT AN AGENT NOW? I THINK SO. We've barely scratched the surface of what you really need to know about selling your home without acquiring a real estate license and 15 years of experience and continuing education. That's where I come in. You now have a good appreciation of my expertise, professionalism, guarantees, and sense of humor. I'm effective, but not neurotic. I get the job done, we have fun along the way, and I don't forget you the second I get paid… If we decide to work together, I would like to think that we can remain friends for a long time to come. That's really up to you. I take good care of my clients, whether they're buying and selling actively, or they're staying put forever. Now you see how I'm able to work By Referral. Everyone wins. Isn't that what life is all about? Why not call me today and hire me to sell your house for you? Do you feel this confident about any other agent? Call me! But whatever your decision, thank you for your interest in me, and best wishes in the ultimate sale of your home!